Black Angelfish: Black Lace, Double Dark, and Telling Them Apart
Black Lace (D/+) and Double Dark (D/D) are different fish sold under the same name at the same shop. This covers which is which, and the tank size, water and tank mates they both need.
| Scientific name | Pterophyllum scalare (Black/Black Lace/Double Dark are captive-bred morphs) |
|---|---|
| Group / family | Cichlidae (South American cichlids) |
| Adult size | Body 4–6 in; total height with fins up to 8–10 in |
| Minimum tank | 29 gal tall (18 in) for a single or pair; 55+ gal for a small group |
| Water | 76–82°F (24–28°C), pH ~6.2–7.4, hardness 3–10 dGH |
| Temperament | Generally peaceful; territorial when breeding |
| Diet | Omnivore: quality flakes/pellets, frozen/live foods, veggie matter |
| Lifespan | 10–15 years with proper care |
Black Angelfish are freshwater color morphs of the common angelfish Pterophyllum scalare, selectively bred for deep melanistic coloration. Keep them in a tall, well-filtered aquarium (29–55+ gallons), soft-to-moderately hard water, stable warmth (24–28°C), and a peaceful community with compatible tank mates.
This guide explains how to identify Black vs. Black Lace vs. Double Dark morphs, set the right tank size and water parameters, choose safe tank mates, and build a practical feeding and maintenance routine.
Appearance & Identification
The Black Angelfish is a captive-bred color morph renowned for its deep, velvety black coloration and classic, elegant shape. You'll most often encounter two closely related looks:
- Black Lace (genetics often denoted D/+): deep charcoal body with subtle underlying patterning; fins show a delicate "lace" translucence in strong light.
- Double Dark (Black) (D/D): richer, more uniform inky black with minimal pattern showing through.
Both morphs retain the tall, disc-like body and elongated dorsal/anal fins typical of angelfish. Juveniles may show faint vertical bars until the black pigment fills in fully with age. Sexual dimorphism is subtle — the most reliable differentiation is visible only during spawning via the breeding tubes (female blunt/rounded; male narrower/pointed).
Diet and environment can enhance the depth of black coloration: foods rich in astaxanthin and carotenoids (frozen krill and daphnia) help, as does a dark substrate and background, which also make the fish feel more secure.
Behavior & Temperament
Black Angelfish are generally calm, mid-water cruisers that establish loose territories around wood or tall plants. A pecking order forms in groups; occasional chasing is normal, especially at feeding or during courtship. As cichlids, they become notably more territorial while breeding and will defend a spawning surface. They are not fin-nippers themselves but can be targets of nippers due to their long fins, and may opportunistically eat very small fish or fry.
Tank Size & Setup
Minimum for a single or pair is a 29-gallon tall (18 in) footprint; for a small group (4–6 juveniles, to allow pairing), start at 55–75 gallons. Use gentle-to-moderate flow — angelfish prefer calm mid-water areas over strong current.
- Aquascape: driftwood, vertical roots/branches, and tall plants (Amazon swords, Vallisneria) to mimic flooded forest edges, plus broad leaves or slate for potential spawning.
- Filtration: a quiet canister or well-baffled hang-on-back, turning over roughly 4–6× per hour without blasting the fish.
- Substrate & lighting: inert sand or fine gravel; moderate lighting shows off black pigment nicely, and darker backgrounds increase contrast.
The first angelfish I lost were a pair of blacks, and it had nothing to do with their being black. In 1990 I put them into a tank I had just finished building out of cement, and they were dead inside a week. The tank was the cause, not the fish. Fresh cement leaches calcium hydroxide, which pushes pH up and makes whatever ammonia is present in a new, uncycled tank far more poisonous than the same test reading would be at pH 7.
I mention it on this page because this is exactly the kind of loss that gets blamed on the variety. A tank that had not finished curing would have killed any angelfish put into it, black or otherwise. The full account — including the leak that sealed itself, and what I should have done before putting fish in — is on the tank setup guide.
Water Parameters & Maintenance
Keep water warm and stable: 76–82°F (24–28°C), pH ~6.2–7.4, hardness 3–10 dGH. Ammonia and nitrite must be 0; keep nitrates under 20–30 ppm. Water changes of 25–40% weekly are typical, and new fish should be quarantined 2–4 weeks.
Diet & Feeding Strategy
Base the diet on a quality angelfish pellet or flake with added carotenoids and vitamins, then rotate frozen or live brine shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms, and blackworms for condition and breeding readiness. Include occasional veggie matter (spirulina flakes, blanched spinach). Feed adults 1–2× daily and juveniles 2–3× for growth, in portions finished in about 2 minutes.
Compatibility & Tank Mates
- Suitable: peaceful mid-to-upper community fish of similar size (larger tetras like black skirt/bleeding heart, lemon, or rummy-nose), Corydoras catfish and smaller Hypancistrus plecos, calmer Rainbowfish; other angelfish are best raised together as juveniles.
- Avoid: fin-nippers like tiger barbs and serpae tetras; overly active/aggressive cichlids (convicts, Jack Dempseys, African rift cichlids); very small fish and shrimp; large nocturnal plecos that can rasp slime coats.
See our full Angelfish Tank Mates guide for the complete breakdown.
Breeding
- Pairing: purchase a group of 6–8 young angelfish and let them form pairs naturally as they mature.
- Spawning: a bonded pair chooses a flat, vertical surface and cleans it meticulously; the female lays rows of eggs and the male fertilizes them.
- Parental care: the parents fan the eggs for oxygen and remove any unfertilized or fungused eggs.
- Hatching: eggs hatch in 2–3 days, with fry free-swimming about a week later and ready for newly hatched brine shrimp.
Beginner Checklist
- Tall tank: 30 gal for a pair; 55+ gal for a group
- Reliable heater & thermometer (76–82°F / 24–28°C)
- Quiet, oversized biofilter with gentle flow
- Test kit: pH, GH/KH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate
- Hardscape and plants: driftwood/roots, swords, Vallisneria, floaters
- Staple quality pellet/flake plus frozen/live food rotation
- Dechlorinator and a 25–40% weekly water change schedule
- Quarantine tank with sponge filter for new arrivals
- Compatible, non-nippy tank mates
Related Angelfish
Frequently Asked Questions
Are Black Angelfish freshwater or saltwater?
They are freshwater morphs of Pterophyllum scalare, selectively bred for dark melanistic coloration.
What is the difference between Black and Black Lace angelfish?
Black Lace is typically a single-dose dark gene showing some underlying pattern; Double Dark (often called Black) appears deeper and more uniformly black.
What tank size do Black Angelfish need?
A 29-gallon tall tank (18 in of height) suits a single or pair. Keep groups in 55 gallons or larger to provide height and reduce territorial stress.
What water parameters are best?
76–82°F (24–28°C), pH about 6.2–7.4, and 3–10 dGH. Keep ammonia and nitrite at 0, nitrates under 20–30 ppm.
Are they aggressive?
They are generally peaceful but become territorial when breeding. Provide visual barriers and adequate space to reduce conflicts.
How long do Black Angelfish live?
They commonly live 8–12 years with stable water, a varied diet, and consistent maintenance.
How do I tell males from females?
Sexing is difficult when young. During spawning, females show a blunt, larger breeding tube; males have a narrower, pointed tube.