Freshwater Angelfish: The Varieties, and What They All Need

A freshwater angelfish is a Pterophyllum cichlid out of the slow, warm rivers of South America — tall-bodied and flattened side to side, built for moving between plant stems and submerged roots rather than for open water. Three species carry the name. Almost every fish sold as an angelfish is one of them, P. scalare, and every variety on this page is a colour form of that one species rather than a fish apart.

In the wild they take small crustaceans and insects among dense planting, and that is what the tank has to accommodate: height, cover, and water that stays where you put it. The wild type is the Silver. Everything else here — Koi, Marble, Black Lace, Philippine Blue — is selective breeding laid on top of it.

The Three Species of Pterophyllum

While most fish in the hobby are the "Common Angelfish," the Pterophyllum genus is composed of three distinct species:

• Pterophyllum scalare (Common Angelfish): the species you'll find in almost every pet store. Decades of breeding have produced all the popular types below, like Koi, Marble, and Silver.
• Pterophyllum altum (Altum Angelfish): the "True Altum" is the holy grail for advanced keepers — larger, more dramatically vertical, and requiring specialized care in tall, soft, acidic tanks.
• Pterophyllum leopoldi (Leopold's Angelfish): the smallest and least common of the three, often identified by a horizontal stripe and a distinct black blotch under the dorsal fin.

Comprehensive Care Guide

Tank Size & Setup

Angelfish need vertical space to accommodate their height. A tall 29-gallon tank is the minimum for a single bonded pair; a group of four to six wants 55 gallons or more, where the extra footprint gives a displaced fish somewhere to go when a pair forms. Larger volumes improve stability and reduce territorial stress (Altum need substantially more). Mimic their natural Amazonian habitat with vertical driftwood and plenty of live plants. See our step-by-step tank setup guide and planted tank guide for details.

Water Parameters

Angelfish are hardy but do best in soft, slightly acidic water: 76–82°F (24–28°C), pH 6.5–7.5, hardness 3–8 dKH.

Diet & Feeding

As omnivores, freshwater angelfish thrive on a varied diet that mimics natural foraging in the Amazon. A high-quality cichlid pellet can serve as a staple, but relying on it exclusively can lead to nutritional deficiencies and boredom — supplement with:

• Frozen foods: brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and bloodworms for protein.
• Live foods (for conditioning): newly hatched brine shrimp or daphnia trigger natural hunting instincts and are excellent for conditioning a breeding pair.
• Vegetable matter: occasional blanched spinach or spirulina-based foods aid digestion.

Feed adults once daily, or small juveniles 2–3 times per day — only what they can consume in about two minutes.

Tank Mates

Angelfish are cichlids and can be semi-aggressive, especially toward smaller fish or during breeding. Good tank mates include peaceful, medium-sized fish like Corydoras catfish, larger tetras, and plecos. Avoid fin-nippers like tiger barbs and very small fish like neon tetras. Read our complete tank mates guide for the full compatibility breakdown.

Breeding (Quick Overview)

Angelfish are substrate spawners that pair off and guard their eggs and fry. For step-by-step setup, conditioning, eggs, and fry care, see our full breeding guide.

Common Diseases & Treatments

Most issues can be prevented with pristine water quality, a proper diet, and quarantining all new fish for 2–3 weeks. Watch for lethargy, clamped fins, appetite loss, frayed fins, rapid breathing, or unusual spots.

• Ich (white spot disease): small white spots resembling grains of salt. Raise temperature gradually to 82–84°F and treat with a commercial ich medication.
• Fin and tail rot: frayed, ragged, or discolored fin edges from bacterial infection, almost always triggered by poor water quality. Start with a large water change plus antibacterial treatment.
• Fungal infections: white, cotton-like patches, often at the site of a previous injury. Treat with a commercial antifungal medication.
• Hexamita (hole-in-the-head disease): small pits or erosions on the head and lateral line, linked to internal parasites and long-term water quality issues. Requires in-tank treatment with a medication such as metronidazole.