Freshwater Angelfish (Pterophyllum): Complete Guide to Types & Care

The Three Species of Pterophyllum

While most fish in the hobby are the "Common Angelfish," the Pterophyllum genus is actually composed of three distinct species:

1. Pterophyllum scalare (Common Angelfish): This is the species you'll find in almost every pet store. Decades of breeding have resulted in all the popular types you see below, like Koi, Marble, and Silver.

2. Pterophyllum altum (Altum Angelfish): The "True Altum" is the holy grail for advanced keepers. It grows much larger, has a dramatic vertical body, and requires much more specialized care in very tall, soft, acidic tanks.

3. Pterophyllum leopoldi (Leopold's Angelfish): The smallest and least common of the three, P. leopoldi is a "dwarf" angelfish often identified by its horizontal stripe and distinct black blotch under the dorsal fin.

Comprehensive Care Guide

Proper care is essential for your angelfish to thrive. This section covers the fundamental aspects of their husbandry.

Tank Size & Setup

Angelfish need vertical space to accommodate their height. Choose a tall 29–40 gallon tank for a pair or small group; larger volumes improve stability and reduce territorial stress (Altum need substantially more height and volume). The setup should mimic their natural Amazonian habitat with vertical driftwood and plenty of live plants, which provide essential security. For a complete list of the best plant species and setup advice, see our How to Set Up an Angelfish Tank: A Step-by-Step Guide and in-depth guide to creating a planted angelfish tank.

Water Parameters

Maintaining stable water conditions is crucial. Angelfish are hardy but do best in soft, slightly acidic water. Aim for the following parameters:

• Temperature: 76–82°F (24–28°C)
• pH: 6.5–7.5
• Hardness: 3–8 dKH

Diet & Feeding: What Do Angelfish Eat?

As omnivores, freshwater angelfish thrive on a varied diet that mimics their natural foraging in the Amazon. While a high-quality cichlid pellet (like X or Y) can serve as a staple, relying on it exclusively can lead to nutritional deficiencies and boredom.

The key to vibrant color and active behavior is supplementation. We recommend feeding a rotating schedule of:

• Frozen Foods: Brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and bloodworms are excellent protein sources.
• Live Foods (for conditioning): Newly hatched brine shrimp or daphnia can trigger natural hunting instincts and are fantastic for conditioning a breeding pair.
• Vegetable Matter: Occasionally offer blanched spinach or spirulina-based foods to aid digestion.

Feeding Schedule: Feed adults once daily, or small juveniles 2-3 times per day. Only provide what they can consume in 2 minutes to prevent overfeeding and maintain water quality.

Tank Mates

While beautiful, angelfish are cichlids and can be semi-aggressive, especially towards smaller fish or during breeding. Good tank mates include peaceful, medium-sized fish like Corydoras catfish, larger tetras, and plecos. Avoid fin-nippers like tiger barbs and very small fish like neon tetras, which may be eaten.

Read our guide, “The Ultimate Angelfish Tank Mates Guide”, for an in-depth explanation.

Angelfish are substrate spawners that pair off and guard eggs/fry. For the step-by-step setup, conditioning, eggs, and fry care, see our full guide on freshwater angelfish breeding.

Common Diseases & Treatments

Like all fish, angelfish are susceptible to common freshwater diseases. Most issues can be prevented with pristine water quality, a proper diet, and by quarantining all new fish for at least 2-3 weeks before adding them to your main tank. Should a problem arise, correctly diagnosing the ailment is key to a successful treatment.

Common Signs of Illness to Watch For

Healthy angelfish are active, responsive, and have a good appetite. Be concerned if you notice:

• Lethargy or hiding more than usual

• Clamped fins (holding fins close to the body)

• Loss of appetite or spitting out food

• Frayed or disintegrating fins

• Rapid breathing or gasping at the surface

• Any unusual spots, growths, or film on the body

Specific Angelfish Ailments

Here are a few of the most common diseases you may encounter:

1. Ich (White Spot Disease)

What it looks like: Small white spots, resembling grains of salt, scattered on the fish's body and fins. Fish may "flash" or rub against objects. Cause & Treatment: Caused by the Ichthyophthirius multifiliis parasite. It's highly contagious but very treatable. Slowly raise the aquarium temperature to 82-84°F (28-29°C) to speed up the parasite's life cycle and treat the tank with a commercial ich medication.

2. Fin and Tail Rot

What it looks like: The edges of the fins appear frayed, ragged, or discolored (often white or black). In severe cases, the fin rays are eaten away, leaving stumps. Cause & Treatment: This is a bacterial infection, almost always triggered by poor water quality and high stress. The first step is a large water change. Treatment may involve antibacterial medications and ensuring tank water is pristine.

3. Fungal Infections

What it looks like: White, cotton-like or fuzzy patches on the fish's body, fins, or mouth. It often appears on the site of a previous injury. Cause & Treatment: Caused by a water-borne fungus. Like fin rot, it's often a secondary infection in fish stressed by poor water conditions. Treat with a commercial antifungal medication and perform diligent tank maintenance.

4. Hexamita (Hole-in-the-Head Disease)

What it looks like: Small pits or erosions, particularly on the fish's head and along the lateral line. It's more common in cichlids, including angelfish. Cause & Treatment: Often linked to a combination of an internal parasite (Hexamita), long-term poor water quality, and potential nutritional deficiencies. This is a serious condition that requires in-tank treatment with a medication like Metronidazole.

Note: This is a brief overview. For a complete diagnostic and treatment guide, please see our dedicated Freshwater Angelfish Disease & Health Guide.