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Black Angelfish (Freshwater) Care: Tank, Diet & Mates

By AFT Editorial • Last Update: September 30, 2025

Black Angelfish are freshwater color morphs of the common angelfish Pterophyllum scalare, selectively bred for deep melanistic coloration. Keep them in a tall, well-filtered aquarium (30–55+ gallons), soft-to-moderately hard water, stable warmth (24–28 °C), and a peaceful community with compatible tank mates.

A Black Angelfish in a beautifully aquascaped tank

This guide explains how to identify Black vs. Black Lace vs. Double Dark morphs, set the right tank size and water parameters, choose safe tank mates, and build a practical feeding and maintenance routine. A beginner checklist and common mistakes section help you avoid the pitfalls that stress angelfish and lead to fin nips, stunting, or disease.

Quick Facts

Topic Details
Scientific name Pterophyllum scalare (freshwater angelfish; Black/Black Lace/Double Dark are captive-bred morphs)
Group / Family Cichlidae (South American cichlids)
Origin Captive-bred morph of a species native to the Amazon basin and tributaries
Adult size Body 4–6 in (10–15 cm); total height with fins up to 8–10 in (20–25 cm)
Minimum tank size 30 gal tall for a single or pair; 55+ gal for a small group
Lifespan 8–12 years with good care
Diet Omnivore: quality flakes/pellets, frozen/live foods (brine shrimp, bloodworms), veggie matter
Temperament Generally peaceful cichlid; territorial when breeding; may eat very small fish
Water parameters Temperature: 76–82 °F (24–28 °C)
pH: ~6.2–7.4 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Hardness: 3–10 dGH; keep ammonia/nitrite 0; nitrates < 20–30 ppm

Appearance & Identification

The Black Angelfish is a stunning, captive-bred color morph of the common freshwater Angelfish. Renowned for its deep, velvety black coloration and classic, elegant shape, it stands out as a dramatic centerpiece in any well-maintained aquarium. Its majestic presence and interesting behaviors make it a favorite among both intermediate and experienced aquarists. You’ll most often encounter two closely related looks:

  • Black Lace (genetics often denoted D/+): deep charcoal body with subtle underlying patterning; fins show a delicate “lace” translucence in strong light.
  • Double Dark (Black) (D/D): richer, more uniform inky black with minimal pattern showing through; dramatic contrast against greens and wood.

Both morphs retain the tall, disc-like body and elongated dorsal/anal fins typical of angelfish. Juveniles are smaller and may show faint vertical bars until the black pigment fills in fully with age; adults display longer fins and a fuller body profile. Sexual dimorphism is subtle—males may develop a slightly broader head profile and more extended dorsal/anal fin tips, but the most reliable differentiation is visible only during spawning via the breeding tubes (female blunt/rounded; male narrower/pointed).

Pro Tip: Maximizing Their Velvety Black Color

While genetics play the biggest role, you can significantly enhance the deep, velvety black of your angelfish through diet and environment. Feed them foods rich in natural color enhancers like astaxanthin and carotenoids. High-quality pellets often contain this, but supplementing with frozen krill and daphnia a few times a week works wonders. Additionally, keeping them on a dark substrate with a black background not only creates visual contrast but also makes the fish feel more secure, encouraging them to display their deepest, richest colors.

Behavior & Temperament

Black Angelfish are generally calm, mid-water cruisers that establish loose territories around wood or tall plants. In groups, a pecking order forms; occasional chasing is normal, especially at feeding times or during courtship. Because they’re cichlids, they become decidedly more territorial while breeding and will defend a patch of leaves or a flat surface where they lay eggs. Provide visual barriers and vertical structure to break line-of-sight and keep stress low.

They are not fin-nippers but can be the target of nippers (long fins invite trouble). They may opportunistically eat very small fish or fry. Keep with appropriately sized, peaceful tank mates and avoid hyperactive or aggressive species that outcompete them at mealtimes.

Tank Size & Setup

Minimum for a single/pair is a 30-gallon tall footprint (more height benefits their long fins). For a small group (4–6 juveniles to allow pairing), start at 55–75 gallons. Use a gentle-to-moderate flow—angelfish prefer calm mid-water areas rather than strong current.

  • Aquascape: Combine driftwood, vertical roots/branches, and tall plants (Amazon swords, Vallisneria) to mimic flooded forest edges. Provide a few broad leaves or slate for potential spawning.
  • Filtration: Substantial biofiltration with a quiet canister or a well-baffled HOB. Aim for a turnover of ~4–6Ă— per hour without blasting the fish.
  • Substrate & lighting: Inert sand or fine gravel; moderate lighting shows off black pigment nicely. Darker backgrounds and botanicals (e.g., Indian almond leaves) increase contrast and can slightly soften water.

Water Parameters & Maintenance

Keep water warm and stable: 76–82 °F (24–28 °C) is the sweet spot. pH ~6.2–7.4 and 3–10 dGH hardness suit most captive-bred Black morphs. They tolerate neutral municipal water if stable, but abrupt swings in pH, temperature, or TDS cause stress that invites infection.

  • Nitrogen control: Ammonia and nitrite must be 0; keep nitrates < 20–30 ppm.
  • Water changes: 25–40% weekly is typical; increase frequency for heavily stocked tanks or when raising fry.
  • Quarantine: Quarantine new fish for 2–4 weeks to avoid introducing parasites (e.g., Ichthyophthirius) or bacterial issues.
  • Temperature stability: Use a reliable heater and thermometer; black morphs show stress quickly via clamped fins or listless behavior.

Diet & Feeding Strategy

Black Angelfish are omnivores. Base the diet on a quality angelfish pellet or flake with added carotenoids and vitamins, then rotate frozen or live foods (brine shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms, blackworms) for condition and breeding readiness. Include occasional veggie matter (spirulina flakes, blanched spinach) to round out micronutrients.

  • Frequency: Feed adults 1–2Ă— daily in modest portions they finish in ~2 minutes; juveniles 2–3Ă— for growth.
  • Enrichment: Offer a mix of floating and slowly sinking foods; vary textures to stimulate natural foraging.
  • Vitamins: Soak frozen foods with a vitamin supplement weekly to reduce deficiency risks.

Compatibility & Tank Mates

As members of the cichlid family, angelfish can be semi-aggressive and territorial, particularly as they mature and pair off for breeding.

Suitable Tank Mates

  • Peaceful mid-to-upper community fish of similar size (e.g., larger tetras like black skirt/bleeding heart, lemon, or rummy-nose in established groups)
  • Corydoras catfish and smaller Hypancistrus plecos (avoid fin-sucking species)
  • Rainbowfish of calmer species/sizes (e.g., dwarf neon, some Melanotaenia—avoid boisterous giants)
  • Other angelfish: best raised together as juveniles; once pairs form, separate pairs to reduce conflict

Tank Mates to Avoid

  • Fin-nippers: Tiger barbs, some larger barbs, and nippy serpae tetras can shred fins.
  • Overly active/aggressive cichlids: Convicts, Jack Dempseys, African rift cichlids—too rough or water chemistry-mismatched.
  • Very small fish/shrimp: Nano rasboras, cherry shrimp—may be seen as food.
  • Common plecos: Large nocturnal species can rasp slime coats or upset resting angels.

Plants & Aquascaping

Black morphs look stunning against planted backgrounds. Try a layered layout: Vallisneria for height and vertical lines; Amazon swords and Echinodorus hybrids for broad leaves (possible spawning sites); floating plants (frogbit, water lettuce) to dapple light and calm surface movement. Root tabs for heavy root feeders; keep CO2 moderate if used—angels appreciate stable pH and O2 levels. Avoid sharp decorations that might snag long fins.

Breeding

Breeding Black Angelfish can be a rewarding experience. They are substrate spawners and form monogamous pairs.

  1. Pairing: It is often best to purchase a group of 6-8 young angelfish and allow them to form their own pairs naturally as they mature.
  2. Spawning: A bonded pair will choose a flat, vertical surface (like a broad plant leaf, a piece of slate, or the filter intake) and meticulously clean it. The female will lay rows of eggs, and the male will follow behind to fertilize them.
  3. Parental Care: The parents are typically very protective, fanning the eggs with their pectoral fins to provide oxygen and warding off any intruders. They will also remove any unfertilized or fungused eggs.
  4. Hatching: The eggs will hatch in 2-3 days, and the fry will become free-swimming about a week later. They can be fed newly hatched brine shrimp or other microscopic foods.

Common Mistakes & Fixes

  • Underestimating height → Fin damage, stress → Choose a tall tank (20+ in / 50+ cm) and avoid sharp décor.
  • Overstocking early → Ammonia spikes → Fully cycle first; add fish gradually; keep robust biofiltration.
  • Strong current → Labored swimming → Baffle outputs, use spray bars, and create calm mid-water zones.
  • Fin-nipping tank mates → Torn fins → Re-home nippers; increase group sizes of schooling fish; add plants to break sightlines.
  • Feeding only flakes → Poor condition → Rotate frozen/live foods and vitamin-soak weekly.
  • Unstable parameters → Disease outbreaks → Keep temperature/pH steady; perform weekly water changes.
  • Mismatched pairs → Constant fighting → Raise a group; let a pair form naturally; separate pairs thereafter.
  • No quarantine → Parasites spread → Quarantine all new fish 2–4 weeks before community introduction.

Beginner Checklist

  • [ ] Tall tank: 30 gal for a pair; 55+ gal for a group
  • [ ] Reliable heater & thermometer (target 76–82 °F / 24–28 °C)
  • [ ] Quiet, oversized biofilter with gentle flow
  • [ ] Water test kit: pH, GH/KH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate
  • [ ] Hardscape: driftwood/roots; plants: swords, Vallisneria, floaters
  • [ ] Staple quality pellet/flake + frozen/live food rotation
  • [ ] Dechlorinator and schedule for 25–40% weekly water changes
  • [ ] Quarantine tub/tank with sponge filter for new arrivals
  • [ ] Compatible, non-nippy tank mates (schooling tetras, Corydoras)
  • [ ] Plan for pair behavior: spare tank/divider if breeding aggression starts

Sources

For more freshwater types, see our Freshwater Angelfish pillar.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are Black Angelfish freshwater or saltwater?

They are freshwater morphs of Pterophyllum scalare, selectively bred for dark melanistic coloration.

What is the difference between Black and Black Lace angelfish?

Black Lace is typically a single-dose dark gene showing some underlying pattern; Double Dark (often called Black) appears deeper and more uniformly black.

What tank size do Black Angelfish need?

A 30-gallon tall tank suits a single or pair. Keep groups in 55 gallons or larger to provide height and reduce territorial stress.

What water parameters are best?

76–82°F (24–28°C), pH about 6.2–7.4, and 3–10 dGH. Keep ammonia and nitrite at 0, nitrates under 20–30 ppm.

What do Black Angelfish eat?

Feed a quality pellet or flake as a staple and rotate frozen or live foods such as brine shrimp, daphnia, and bloodworms, plus occasional veggie matter.

Are they aggressive?

They are generally peaceful but become territorial when breeding. Provide visual barriers and adequate space to reduce conflicts.

Can Black Angelfish live with tetras?

Yes, choose larger, peaceful tetras kept in groups. Very small species may be eaten by adult angelfish.

How long do Black Angelfish live?

They commonly live 8–12 years with stable water, a varied diet, and consistent maintenance.

Do they need plants?

Plants are not mandatory but strongly recommended for cover, stress reduction, and potential spawning sites.

How do I tell males from females?

Sexing is difficult when young. During spawning, females show a blunt, larger breeding tube; males have a narrower, pointed tube.

Can I keep a single Black Angelfish?

Yes. A single angelfish can be a calm centerpiece fish when housed with compatible tank mates.

How often should I change water?

Plan 25–40% weekly water changes. Increase frequency if nitrates creep up or if you keep a heavily stocked tank.

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